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What Is Ankara Fabric? Types, Materials, How to Identify Original Ankara & Prices in Canada
If you have walked into an African fabric store, attended an African wedding, or checked out African fashion designs online, you have probably come across Ankara fabric.
It’s almost impossible to walk into a store selling African fabrics and not come across different variations of Ankara.
Ankara fabric is probably the most popular fabric in contemporary African fashion. The appeal has gone beyond Africa, you can find African wax prints in places like Canada, the UK, and the USA.
Looking at the history of Ankara fabric, like many other aspects of African art and culture, Ankara has a very fascinating history.
Initially, the fabric was invented in Europe in an attempt to mechanically reproduce Indonesian batik.
It eventually was adopted and became a huge part of African fashion and cultural expression.
The Victoria and Albert Museum defines Ankara as a cotton fabric which is commonly referred to as African Wax print.
It’s now commonplace to see people around the world wearing Ankara print, especially in garments like bags, tops, skirts, trousers, shoes, etc.
But what exactly is Ankara fabric? Let’s find out.
What Is Ankara Fabric?
Ankara fabric is a vibrant printed cotton fabric originating from west Africa, and is used for the creation of colorful, bold, African designs.
This fabric has found a place in the African fashion industry and is instantly recognizable.
The magic of Ankara is in the prints. They're bold, saturated, and full of personality. Geometric shapes, floral motifs, abstract designs, each pattern tells a story or carries a meaning.
Like other cotton fabric, this is also used for casual clothes for men and women, children's wear, traditional costumes, shoes, handbags, cushion covers, bed sheets and table tops.
Designers have also developed creative ways of using Ankara fabric for various product designs.
One thing that especially makes Ankara interesting is its diverse visual language.
From the same fabric, a designer may interpret a human figure differently using different symbols like flowers, birds, geometric shapes or abstract patterns.
In different communities of Africa, these patterns have names and bear different meanings.
There are social fabric designs used in fabric to communicate messages without the wearer saying a word. Because of this, Ankara has gone past being colorful fabric.
It reflects the African sense of style and expresses Africa's identity, pride and cultural heritage.
What Is Ankara Fabric Made Of
In a simple term: authentic Ankara is made from 100% cotton
Cotton is a popular fabric choice because it is natural, comfortable, and breathable. It is used in a variety of garments.
Ankara prints are usually 100% cotton, but the fiber composition may vary among different manufacturers.
Some may contain rayon, polyester, spandex, or other synthetic fibers. It may also vary among the same brand of fabric, as lower quality fabric may also be sold.
The printed design on the cotton fabric is created by the dye and printing process, and not the natural features of cotton fiber.
The printing and dyeing process of Ankara prints is known as the resist printing method. Similar to batik, parts of the fabric are protected to resist the dye, thereby allowing those areas to retain their natural color.
What Is Another Name for Ankara Fabric
You might hear Ankara being called a few different names depending on who you're talking to and where they're from.
Let's look at some of the most common aliases:
African Wax Print: probably the most widely used alternative name
Dutch Wax or Holland Wax: a nod to the Dutch manufacturers who played a huge role in its history
African Print: a catch-all term you'll see everywhere
Kitanga: what it's called in East Africa
So if you're shopping online and see "African wax print fabric" or "Dutch wax," it's the same thing you're looking for. Don't let the different names throw you off.
Why Is It Called Ankara Fabric
This is one of the more interesting aspects of the fabric. The name has been associated with the trading history of West Africa, especially the city of Accra in present-day Ghana.
It has been reported that the Hausa people adopted a term associated with Accra when referring to the colorful fabrics that passed through the city.
With time, the term became associated with the fabrics.
Some historical sources therefore, associate the word, “Ankara” with the adaptation of the pronunciation of Accra by the Hausa people.
Another historical account had it that "Ankara" was actually the name of a girl. The name was initially used to refer to the cheaper version of Dutch Wax fabric that was being sold in African markets .
Over time, the name stuck, and it became the go-to term for this style of printed cotton.
How to Identify Original Ankara
This is the part you need to know if you're about to spend your money.
Marketplaces are full of fakes, and nobody wants to pay high prices for glorified polyester.
These are ways to tell if that Ankara you are about to buy is real:
The Scratch Test. Take either a coin or your fingernail and scratch the fabric. If the fabric shows signs of damage or wear, its low quality. The original Ankara will not show signs of damage.
The Water Test: Take a small piece of fabric and get it wet. If the dye in the fabric starts to seep into the water, the fabric is low quality.
The Touch Test: Original Ankara is made of 100% cotton, and will feel soft to the touch. It will also feel thick and have substance. Cheap and low quality Ankara will feel very thin and very papery. Original Ankara will also spring back into shape after being worn or touched.
Check for Registration Numbers: Some Ankara has a brand marking or registration number printed on it. If a fabric doesn't have anything printed on it, be suspicious.
Look at Both Sides of the Fabric: With many genuine wax prints, the pattern and colours are visible on both sides of the fabric.
This does not mean the front and back will always look perfectly identical. However, a strong difference between the printed front and a nearly blank back can be a clue that you are looking at a fancy or surface-printed fabric rather than a traditional wax print.
Check the Manufacturer: Brand matters. Some recognised African print manufacturers and brands have built reputations around particular quality levels and product lines.
Names you may encounter include Vlisco, Uniwax, GTP, Woodin, ABC Wax, Hollantex, Hitarget and Da Viva, among others. Academic literature on African print textiles also documents several of these manufacturers and brand names.
Trust Your Nose (and Your Wallet): If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is. Walk away from a deal if the person selling is trying to pass off low quality Ankara as Original Ankara for pennies.
How much is Ankara Fabric in Canada
If you live in Canada and are wondering how much Ankara Fabric costs, here's a general idea of prices.
As of the latest Canadian listings I checked, ordinary Ankara and African print fabric sold by the yard can commonly be found around CA$10 to CA$25 per yard, although some fabrics are cheaper and premium fabrics can cost considerably more.
Ankara Fabric can be bought on Amazon.ca, and 6-yards of the fabric can cost about 32 Canadian Dollars. But, be careful because some of that fabric may not be original.
Another Canadian retailer lists 100% Ankara wax-print fabric at CA$14 per yard.
Prices are substantially more diverse on the online marketplace. Today, individual Ankara fabrics on Etsy Canada range in price from $10 to $25 per yard, with some luxury or unique fabrics costing considerably more.
Prices range from around CA$30 to CA$90 or more for a six-yard piece, depending on the fabric and the vendor. Premium brand materials might be significantly more expensive.
So, as a rough guide:
Ankara Fabric | Approximate Price in Canada |
Budget African print | CA8toCA15 per yard |
Standard Ankara | CA12toCA25 per yard |
Better-quality wax print | CA20toCA35+ per yard |
Premium branded fabric | CA25toCA50+ per yard |
6-yard Ankara piece | About CA30toCA90+ |
Premium 6-yard fabric | Can exceed CA$100 |
These are suggested retail prices, not firm market pricing. Sellers may modify pricing according on exchange rates, delivery, promotions, brand, availability and fabric quality.
If buying Ankara fabric in Canada, it is also important to verify whether the price is per yard, per meter, per half-yard or for a complete six yards.
That tiny detail might make all the difference when you are comparing prices.
Why Is Some Ankara More Expensive Than Others?
You may notice two Ankara fabrics and think “
These look almost the same. Why is one twice the price?
There can be a handful of reasons.
First, consider the brand reputation.
Some premium textile manufacturers can charge a higher price with valid reasons including their manufacturing and/or distribution costs.
Second, consider production techniques.
Genuine wax prints generally require more complex production processes than inexpensive surface-printed fabrics.
Third, consider the quality of the fabrics.
The overall weight and finishing of the fabrics can play a role in price.
Fourth, design can be a factor as well.
Intricate patterns involving multiple colours and detailed registration can be more expensive to produce.
Fifth, consider importation and distribution.
When importing Ankara fabrics to Canada, the price can include international shipping and related costs, as well as retailer's profit and other costs.
For these reasons, fabric which costs a certain amount in Nigeria or other African countries can be more in Canada.
Is Expensive Ankara Always Better?
Not always.
This is a key point.
Just because a fabric is expensive doesn't mean it's the best choice.
A very expensive designer wax print may not be the best choice for making a simple, casual dress.
However, if you are making a wedding outfit, ceremonial attire or a statement fashion piece, investing in a premium fabric may make more sense.
The best Ankara is the one that reflects your budget, purpose, and expectation.
One can always find good-quality Ankara that is reasonable for everyday, normal use.
For luxury fashion, premium wax prints may be worth the additional cost.
What Can You Make With Ankara Fabric?
This is another reason Ankara remains so popular.
The fabric is incredibly versatile.
You can use Ankara to make:
Ankara dresses
Ankara skirts
Ankara trousers
Ankara shirts
Ankara blouses
Ankara jackets
Ankara jumpsuits
Ankara kaftans
Ankara boubous
Ankara children's clothing
Ankara headwraps
Ankara bags
Ankara shoes
Ankara bow ties
Ankara accessories
Ankara cushions
Ankara home decorations
Ankara quilts
The same piece of fabric can look completely different depending on how it is cut and styled.
A bold geometric print might look modern and sophisticated as a fitted blazer.
The same fabric could look completely different when used for a flowing African maxi dress.
How to Care for Ankara Fabric
Taking care of your Ankara is just as important as buying it.
Washing Instructions:
Before washing your Ankara, check the manufacturer's care labels. They should tell you how best to wash your item of clothing.
Safest way to wash Ankara is:
- Washing with similar colours.
- Avoiding harsh detergents.
- Using cool or cold water.
- Avoiding rubbing.
- Avoiding soaking for long periods of time.
Drying Instructions:
Follow the care labels on your garments for the best way to dry your clothing.
Exposing your garments to direct sunlight for long periods of time can cause your Ankara to fade.
Different textiles will require different treatment. A polycotton Ankara will require different treatment to a viscose Ankara.
Is Ankara Actually African?
There is a strong case to be made for Ankara's African origins, especially in West Africa. However, the main origins of the fabric's technologies lie elsewhere.
Using Ankara is the perfect example of an integration of various styles. The motifs and designs trace origins to Indonesian Batik, and later were industrialised by Dutch textile producers.
These textiles were then adopted, shaped and transformed in West Africa.
Saying, "Ankara was invented in Africa," fails to capture the other parts of the story. Saying "Ankara has nothing to do with Africa" would also completely miss what happened afterward.
It's the process of appropriation. African communities have embodied the textile and given it various meanings, names and uses.
It has been incorporated into traditional and modern structures.
Today, Ankara is firmly established as one of the most recognisable fabrics in African fashion.
Ankara Fabric vs African Wax Print: Are They the Same?
You’ll find these terms used interchangeably in regular purchasing.
One may say:
“I need an Ankara.”
Some one else might say:
‘Give me an African wax print.
Someone else might say:
Get me some Dutch wax.
They may all be looking for broadly similar types of fabric.
But technically there can be discrepancies.
Ankara is a general West African name for colorful African pattern fabrics.
African wax print is a generic term for colorful printed fabrics connected with African fashion.
Dutch wax is a classic term often used to describe wax-print textiles produced by the Dutch.
Wax Hollandais is the name for a certain tradition and category of African wax prints made in the Netherlands.
The term “fancy print” usually refers to fabrics that look like wax-print fabrics but are not made via the typical resist-printing process.
So, when you buy fabric, don't just go by the name.
Inspect the real fabric.
Final Thoughts on Ankara Fabric
Ankara fabric is so much more than cotton and color.
It is a textile with an interesting history that unites Indonesian batik traditions, European industrial production, West African trade and African innovation.
Today, Ankara is used for everything from traditional clothing to high-fashion designs.
You can find simple and affordable African print fabrics, premium Dutch wax fabrics, luxury designer prints and countless modern interpretations of classic Ankara patterns.
If you are buying for Ankara, check the fabric composition, the quality of the printing, the selvage markings, the brand, the color intensity, the quality of the design and the pricing.
And don't trust anyone who tells you that every Ankara fabric is precisely the same.
There is a huge difference between a basic imitation print and a premium wax textile.
The good news is that you don’t always need to spend a fortune.
Whether you are in Ghana, Nigeria, Canada, United States, United Kingdom or anywhere else, chances are, there is an Ankara cloth that will suit your budget and your style.
And that’s probably the main reason Ankara has become so popular.
It is colorful, expressive, adaptable and infinitely inventive.
From a basic Ankara skirt to a spectacular wedding dress, from a traditional wrapper to a modern jacket, this amazing fabric keeps finding new ways to blend into current fashion.
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